Working to complete the coaming boards was the goal for the week, and I'm happy to say the goal was met. Having rough shaped the starboard coaming the week prior, I set out to work on the port coaming. This involved countless trips out to Biscuit and then back to the shop for test fittings and subsequent shaping in the shop...an iterative process, but a necessary and fun process. An important part of achieving fit is to chamfer the forward and aft edges of the coamings . This edge, when bent into position, requires relief in order to allow the wood coaming to fit itself tightly against the fiberglass coaming.

Once I had achieved the final fit of the port coaming, I immediately moved to completing the port coaming by applying the round-overs to the top edge and generally softening the edges. I grabbed a scrap piece of mahogany from the same board the coaming boards were cut from, and with a 1/4"round over bit in the Makita palm router, I tested the round over on the scrap piece, making a pass on each side and then blending the cut with 80 grit followed by 320 grit. As can be seen in the photo below, the profile looked and felt great. I routed both sides of the top edge of the port coaming and then blended the cuts by hand-sanding through to 320 grit.

Happy with the port coaming, I pulled the starboard coaming out to repeat the iterative process of fitting, shaping, test-fitting, repeating. I reached the proper fit for the starboard coaming, and then proceeded to router the top edge and hand-sand the balance of the board. At this point, I had reached near completion of the coaming boards. I finished them off by opening up the drain reliefs in the aft ends, the tails, of the coaming boards.

This completed the brightwork for the day, but I had another task before closing the shop. The boom required another coat of topcoat paint upon close inspection, so I sanded back with 220 grit and applied the fifth and final (hopefully) coat to the boom.

Total Hrs: 4.5