
9610 Commonwealth Ave., Jacksonville, FL 32220
Biscuit
About Her: Biscuit is a '74 Cape Dory Typhoon
Project Scope: Bottom job (stripped, barrier coat, and new antifoul), hull and deck paint, structural repairs, new brightwork fabrication, assembly and varnishing, mast and boom paint, new deck hardware, more tbd.
Timeline: October '24 through TBD

Project Hours:
Completed Bilge Wiring (testing) and Mounting Plate Build
Jun 7, 2026
With Biscuit's refit approaching conclusion, having just a limited number of projects remaining, today I spent my time completing the wiring of the bilge pump and generally getting it ready to fully complete its installation after a final cabin interior project. The positive and negative leads were addressed in the preceding days - bringing two power lines to the bilge pump switch, and the negative lead to the battery terminal. My work today included a battery power lead to the bilge pump switch (the fuse male plug) as well as a negative lead from the bilge pump switch to the battery. Wanting to keep the expenses as if they were mine, I chose one reel of white #16 wire to perform all wiring work. Purchasing the by-the-book colors would have resulted in a significant amount of leftover wire, and as it turned out I used the complete reel of white wire for my needs. The individual wire leads would be marked with electrical tape denoting their positive (red) and negative (black/yellow) service.
Having located the most natural point of a battery installation, I measured the existing positive leads and then removed the unnecessary lengths from both wires. These two lengths of wire, connected with a butt joint and heat-shrink, would form the bilge pump switch to battery negative. The small length of wire remaining on the reel would be used for the positive power lead from the battery to the male fuse plug on the bilge pump switch.
I started by placing the bilge pump and extension bracket within the bilge and running the positive leads to the bilge pump switch (panel). The route and length of the wires proved unnecessarily long and so allowed me to removed the unneeded length from both wires. The negative lead from the bilge pump proved amply long to get to the negative terminal of the battery. At this point I marked the positive wires to remove the portion of length not needed and then removed the bilge pump and extension bracket, bringing them back into the shop. I removed the wire, and then connected the two lengths with a butt-joint, both ends covered with heat shrink. On this negative panel switch to battery wire, I connected a female plug and a battery terminal ring, all crimped and completed with heat shrink. I also attached female plugs on the ends of the positive wires from the bilge pump.
At this point, I turned my attention to the remaining length of wire on the reel. This portion of wire would be the final length needed, and would bring power from the battery to the switch panel. I completed the ends of the wire with a female plug on one end and a battery terminal ring on the other, both completed with heat shrink. Finally, I connected the bilge pump wiring to a battery to test the work. All worked as designed, the manual on switch as well as the automatic setting. I set the bilge pump panel, the pump itself and wiring to the side for future install.
In Biscuit's cabin, to starboard, a hole in the molded cabin liner where the bilge pump switch is to be installed required covering, and so I spent the balance of my time fabricating a mounting plate to accept the bilge pump switch and cover the existing hole cut into the liner. I grabbed a 5/8" thick piece of milled mahogany and began to lay out the overall dimensions, as well as an opening in the plate to accept the new bilge pump switch. A number of cuts and rounds of sanding provided the final product, to which I cleaned and sealed with varnish. An additional few coats of varnish will complete this piece.
Total Hrs: 3.5




